Before and after.

I started this project with an old side table from the 40’s. The table was in bad shape when I got a hold of it. The glass top was cracked, the stain was fading, and the wood was chipped and warped in spots.

An electric sander made sanding the flat surfaces a breeze.

Always sand in the direction of the wood grain.

Once I started sanded the top of the table I began seeing the beautiful grains that were hidden underneath the grime.

Sanding the ridges in the legs were the hardest part of this project, and I probably obsessed a little too much on getting them perfect since I was just going to re-stain the wood anyways.

I had okay results using heavy steel wool on the legs, but I got the best results from a folded piece of sand paper to get deep into the ridges.

My little helper, Cheddar.

Here’s the fully sanded table.

The top fully sanded.

The edges of the table top were pretty badly warped so I put a bit of wood filler in the corners and sanded them down.

One of the leg supports were warped out of place so I glued it and put a five pound weight on it overnight.

Table stained.

I bought a bunch of different kinds of shark teeth from around the web…and one pig tooth. The best was an assorted pack I got from eBay.

Fleshing out the shark pattern. I used a paper cut out of a shark as a guide. I also used a few pieces of painters tape to maintain the right size.

Plus my second helper, Lacy.

I measured ever thing out, and laid a ruler across the table top to keep my rows straight. Then I used super glue to glue them into place.

The best way I found to glue everything down was just moving one tooth at a time, putting a drop of glue on the table, and putting the tooth back in place.

More helpers.

The shark teeth all laid out and glued in place.

I used marine grade epoxy because I already had some on hand from a boat project, but they make table top epoxy that’s much cheaper.

One of the most important things to remember when using epoxy is to work with it in a warm environment. In temperatures below 50 degrees epoxy will take much longer to cure, and won’t be as strong when cured.

The other important thing to remember is mixing the two parts in the correct proportion. I didn’t mix enough epoxy the first time I poured so I rushed mixing a second batch and didn’t get the proportions right. This made a few sticky spots along the edges of the epoxy that took months to cure.

There were a lot of bubbles in the mix when I finally got it poured, which was probably cause I was rushing while mixing it and added a lot of bubbles then. If you’re gentle with the mixing you’ll have a lot less bubbles once it’s poured.

To get the bubbles out of your mix you need to apply heat to the epoxy. I tried using a hair dryer at first, because honestly plumber torches freak me out, but the hair dryer just pushed the bubbles around without popping them.

The plumber torch made quick work of the bubbles though. You just wave the torch about an inch over the epoxy, but be careful not to get too close and burn the epoxy.

I found these shark tooth drawer handles from an awesome artist on Etsy. She has a lot of really cool handles on her page.

The finished product.

Please leave a comment below and let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

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