My grandfather left me a 1920’s Remington Improved Model 6 rolling block, single shot, take down 22. rifle (wow, that was a mouth full). Shooting with the old rifle’s iron sights were a breeze and as accurate as the day it was made, but the aesthetics of the gun were pretty lacking. The barrel was rust covered and badly pitted, and the wooden stock was so dark you could barely see the grain.
Here’s a good write up on the Remington No. 6 Rolling Block Rifle.
I ordered the Birchwood Casey Complete Gun Finish Kit and for around twenty bucks I was very happy with the end result.
Dismantle your firearm.
Before you start the bluing process get yourself some good rubber gloves.
Cleaner-Degreaser: Using a sponge clean all the metal surfaces with the Cleaner-Degreaser, then rinse well with water.
Blue & Rust Remover: Make sure you do this step in a well ventilated area, because the Blue & Rust Remover smells horrible. Take a swab and apply the Blue & Rust Remover, and let it set for two minutes. Then polish the metal lightly with a pad of steel wool moistened with the Blue & Rust Remover until it’s shiny.
Sanding: If the metal is badly scratched or pitted sand the metal with fine 280-grit sand paper, then polish with steel wool. The guide says a file may be needed in extreme cases, but my gun was in pretty bad shape and I was fine with just sanding it…though it was a workout getting all the pits out.
Make sure to take your time when preparing the metal for bluing.
After removing the old bluing and/or rust, and sanding down the pits, wash the metal again using the Cleaner-Degreaser and raise well with water.
Bluing: Apply the Perma Blue to all showing metal of the piece you’re working on. The Perma Blue works quick so apply it as fast as you can to maintain an even color to your finished product. Once applied let it work for 30-60 seconds then immediately rinse with cold water and dry. Rinsing with cold water neutralizes the bluing reaction.
Polish lightly with steel wool to even the color and wash the metal again with the Cleaner-Degreaser to remove any oils that may have been added by the polishing.
If the color is noticeably uneven, or you want a darker color reapply the Perma Blue and re-do the above steps until you’re happy with the color.
Wipe the metal down with the Barricade rust protection wipes that come with the kit and let the bluing cure overnight.
Here are some other pictures of my bluing process.
It’s not a very clean process.
Refinishing the Stock
Sanding: Use 180 grit sand paper to get the old finish off (I used 100 grit), then use 280 grit to take care of the smaller scratches, finally run some fine steel wool over the wood to polish it.
Remember to always sand with the grain, never against the grain.
Stock Sheen & Conditioner: Once sanded, wipe the dust off with a tack cloth, and apply the Stock Sheen & Conditioner to the wood. This product conditions the wood and helps it absorb the wood stain more evenly.
Wood Staining: Hang your stock from a wire, this allows you to turn the stock and apply the stain smoothly. It also lets the stain dry without out drips or clots.
Apply the stain with a cloth or brush, and let it dry overnight before moving on to the next step.
Tru-Oil: The Tru-Oil gives your stock a glassy protective finish. Keep the stock hung up from the wire and apply a light coat of Tru-Oil to the stock. Let the stock dry for 24 hours and inspect the wood for any drips or streaks. If found, run fine 400-grit sand paper or steel wool over the rough area until smooth then wipe the wood down with a tack cloth.
You want to apply at least 5 Tru-Oil coats to your stock, waiting over night between each coat. Your final coat should be light and applied very carefully so no streaking occurs.
About a week after your final coat of Tru-Oil, you can apply the Stock Wax to your gun’s wood and metal areas for added protection. Just apply a coat with a clean cloth and polish until dry.